WSJ - Best Chef's Knives

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Bolster
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WSJ - Best Chef's Knives

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Post by Bolster »

If any of you are interested in this, I scraped the text of a Wall Street Journal article on "Best Chef's Knives." It was in the Thursday May 9 issue.

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The Best Chef’s Knives for Dicing, Slicing and Chopping Nearly Anything
No more blunt blades—our favorite knives start sharp and stay that way
BUY SIDE RATED
The MAC Mighty MTH-80 chef’s knife, with a black handle and dimpled blade, against a purple background.
The MAC Mighty MTH-80 is the best knife for every home kitchen. PHOTO: Buy Side from WSJ Photo Illustration.
FEATURED IN THIS ARTICLE

MAC Knife Mighty MTH-80 8" Chef's Knife

MAC Knife
Mighty MTH-80 8" Chef's Knife
$175
$140
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Misono 440 Series 8.2" Gyuto Knife

Misono
440 Series 8.2" Gyuto Knife
$105
$100
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Wüsthof Classic Ikon 8" Chef's Knife

Wüsthof
Classic Ikon 8" Chef's Knife
$153
$135
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Miyabi Birchwood SG2 8" Chef's Knife

Miyabi
Birchwood SG2 8" Chef's Knife
$440
$282
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Victorinox Swiss Classic 8" Chef's Knife

Victorinox
Swiss Classic 8" Chef's Knife
$60
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Henckels Classic 8" Chef's Knife

Henckels
Classic 8" Chef's Knife
$116
$47
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Material The 8" Knife

Material
The 8" Knife
$85
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Tojiro VG10 240mm Gyuto Knife

Tojiro
VG10 240mm Gyuto Knife
$140
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Published Aug. 25, 2023 at 8:00 am ET
By Lauren Joseph

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TEXT
A chef’s knife might be the most important tool in your kitchen. Any old knife can get the job done, but a sharp blade will make your work speedier and more precise. Plus a dull knife requires a certain amount of brute force to get through sturdy produce, and kitchen accidents can happen when you put that kind of muscle behind a slipping blade.

Having a chef’s knife that is comfortable to grip will also make cooking easier on your hand, wrist and shoulder. There are times when a tiny paring knife or serrated bread knife might come in handy, but with a sharp chef’s knife, you can just as easily dice a shallot as you can joint a chicken.

The MAC Mighty MTH-80 is the knife we’d wholeheartedly recommend for most home cooks thanks to its incredibly sharp edge, its lightweight, agile design and, most importantly, its edge retention. If you prefer a strictly Japanese-style knife, we like Misono’s 440 Molybdenum Gyuto 8.2”, while Wüsthof’s Classic Ikon 8-Inch Chef’s Knife is our favorite Western-style chef’s knife. Miyabi’s Birchwood knife is an elegant piece that justifies its higher price, and if you’re a casual cook looking for a lower-price yet reliable blade, we recommend the Victorinox Swiss Classic Chef’s Knife.

Best overall chef’s knife
Best Japanese-style chef’s knife
Best Western-style chef’s knife
Best upgrade chef’s knife
Best lower-price chef’s knife
Others you should know about
How we picked
Best overall chef’s knife
BUY SIDE TOP PICK

Mighty MTH-80 8" Chef's Knife
MAC KNIFE
Mighty MTH-80 8" Chef's Knife

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$140 AT AMAZON
$175 Save $35
With the sharpest and longest-lasting edge, a sleek, agile shape and a lightweight handle, this knife is the best choice for home cooks.

Pros

Maintains a sharp edge
Out-of-the-box sharp
Gently curved belly makes for graceful slicing, regardless of cutting style
Lightweight, balanced and comfortable to hold
Dimples on blade prevent stickage
Cons

Higher price
MAC’s 8-inch chef’s knife, the Mighty MTH-80, combines the best aspects of a Japanese knife and a Western knife. The most important, and most impressive, feature was how well it maintained a sharp edge. The blade arrived sharp, and with a few licks of a honing steel, this knife will retain a beautifully sharp edge for a week or two in a professional kitchen, which translates to months for most home cooks. The blade, made from a stamped steel with a hardness of 58 to 61 on the Rockwell scale, is also thin enough to avoid any splintering of produce whatsoever.

The MTH-80’s blade has a gentle curve, somewhere between the sharp line of a Gyuto, a Japanese all-purpose kitchen knife, and the belly of a traditional Western chef’s knife. We found that shape complemented a roll cut, but that it was possible to push cut as well. It’s fairly lightweight and well-balanced, which means it was comfortable in our hand even after an hour or two of cooking. After testing all the knives on this list, we wondered why more didn’t have dimples along the blade like the MAC. Those little divots, which together make up what is called a Granton edge, prevent whatever you’re slicing from suctioning to the knife. It might seem like a small thing, but if you have to stop and wipe zucchini slices from a flat blade every third cut, you’ll want a Granton edge.

The length of the knife is just right for most people and most tasks. Eight inches isn’t too long to sacrifice precision, but is lengthy enough to trim the edges off half a dozen spears of asparagus in one go. While the blade isn’t very tall, it’s just enough: At 1.88 inches high, it’s over the 1.5-inch height recommended by the experts we spoke with. (Any shorter, and you’ll find you don’t have enough knuckle clearance with your noncutting hand.)

Best Japanese-style chef’s knife

440 Series 8.2" Gyuto Knife
MISONO
440 Series 8.2" Gyuto Knife

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$100 AT AMAZON
$105 Save $5
Pros

Out-of-the-box sharpness
Precise tip
Comfortable hand feel
Competitive price
Cons

Edge retention was pretty good but not perfect
Requires special care due to asymmetrical bevel
If you’re used to Japanese knives or prefer their long-lasting, razor-sharp edges, we recommend the Misono 440 Molybdenum Gyuto 8.2”. Out of the box, the knife is brilliantly sharp, and it mostly stayed that way through our litany of tests. Despite being a quarter-inch longer than most of the knives in our test, it actually felt more agile in our hand than all but our winning knife. At just 5.6 ounces (about an ounce lighter than the MAC) and with a precise tip and lightweight, water-resistant handle, this knife had us deftly slicing through tender herbs with ease.

Chefs love this knife, too. One sous-chef I spoke to had used his daily for six years, despite having a Gyuto from Misono’s UX10 line, which is a small jump up in blade quality. Given that this one is $85 less than a UX10 Gyuto, we were thrilled with this knife. The edge stayed quite sharp throughout testing, more so than any other knife at this price point. One note: The edge is asymmetrical, which means it requires a skilled sharpener, and it’s trickier to find a knife for lefties in stock.

Best Western-style chef’s knife

Classic Ikon 8" Chef's Knife
WÜSTHOF
Classic Ikon 8" Chef's Knife

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$135 AT AMAZON
$153 Save $18
$200 AT SUR LA TABLE
This knife is a classic German workhorse with a reassuringly sturdy heft paired with a uniquely maneuverable blade and handle design.

Pros

Comfortable handle
Out-of-the-box sharpness
Lightly curved belly shape adaptable to different cutting styles
Cons

On the heavy side
Thicker balde
Lack of edge retention
The first thing we loved about this Wüsthof knife was the smoothly curved polypropylene handle. It’s on the heavier side, which is to be expected for a classic German chef’s knife, but the ergonomic handle makes it feel manageable. While the knife felt weighted toward the handle, especially in comparison to the Japanese knives we tested, Josh Donald of Bernal Cutlery and author of “Sharp” tells us not to automatically consider that a bad thing. “A neutral balance is overrated,” he says.

Wüsthof knives are sharpened to 14 degrees, which is a steeper angle than the traditional German angle of 20 degrees. That might be why the knife sliced through vegetables like sweet potatoes and carrots without splintering them, even though the blade itself is thicker than those of the Japanese knives we tested. And it was while cutting sturdier produce that this knife really shone, as the added heft made it feel quite secure in our hands as we broke down sweet potatoes and melons.

The blade on this knife is rated 58 on the Rockwell scale, but we felt it dulled faster than the Japanese knives that boasted the same score, including the Misono. While there is something lost in sharpness with a German knife such as the Ikon, the ease of use helps. This knife doesn’t need to be oiled between uses, cannot form rust and comes with a lifetime warranty against normal wear and tear.

Best upgrade chef’s knife

Birchwood SG2 8" Chef's Knife
MIYABI
Birchwood SG2 8" Chef's Knife

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$282 AT AMAZON
$440 Save $158
$290 AT SUR LA TABLE
$350 Save $60
This Japanese-style knife is incredibly sharp, holds its edge and is a pleasure to look at and to hold.

Pros

Exceptionally comfortable handle
Hard steel blade maintains a sharp edge
Gorgeous design
Cons

Somewhat heavy
Higher price
May feel too nice to use for daily tasks
Miyabi’s Birchwood 8” Chef’s Knife is an excellent upgrade pick or gift. The soft, lightweight birch handle, while maybe too precious-looking for daily use, was comfortably weighty in the hand without being unwieldy. The blade, which is made of microcarbide powder and steel, has an impressive rating of 63 on the Rockwell scale. In our test, the Miyabi was able to slice through the skins of very ripe cherries without any tugging, pulling or tearing. It comes at a higher price than the rest of our picks, and for that cost, many home cooks might prefer a lighter weight, more traditional Japanese knife. But the combination of steel hardness and beautiful handle justifies the cost.

Best lower-price chef’s knife

Swiss Classic 8" Chef's Knife
VICTORINOX
Swiss Classic 8" Chef's Knife

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$60 AT AMAZON
$61 AT SUR LA TABLE
Pros

Lower price
Tall blade means easy knuckle clearance
Cons

Handle construction means the seam between blade and handle is hard to keep sterile
Doesn’t keep an edge for long
The Victorinox Swiss Classic Chef’s Knife is a no-frills knife that gets the job done. It’s lightweight (only 6.4 ounces) with a tall blade and plastic handle. While the edge didn’t begin as razor sharp nearly as long as the other winners, nor remain as sharp nearly as long, we could still julienne herbs with relative ease by the end of testing. Plus, it comes at a nearly unbeatable price, and is quite durable.

Others you should know about
Lower-price Western-style knife with a lighter handle


Classic 8" Chef's Knife
HENCKELS
Classic 8" Chef's Knife

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$47 AT AMAZON
$116 Save $69
$47 AT WAYFAIR
$116 Save $69
The Henckels Classic performed similarly to the Ikon in our first tests, and we liked how lightweight the handle was. However, the blade was a bit too soft to retain an edge. At 55 to 58 on the Rockwell scale, it didn’t compare to the Ikon’s standard 58 rating, and began to dull slightly by the time we reached the herb test. Still, for the difference in price, or for someone who wants a German-style knife with a lighter handle, that might be a negligible concession. The curved belly makes for a very rhythmic and speedy roll cut. If that is your cutting style, this is a good choice for you.

Well-performing knife with stylish handle options


The 8" Knife
MATERIAL
The 8" Knife

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$85 AT MATERIAL
$85 AT AMAZON
The Material 8” Knife was our favorite of the direct-to-consumer knives we tested. The blade is made of high-carbon and stainless steel, and stayed quite sharp throughout testing. We liked the balanced weight distribution of the full-tang knife and how the slightly grippy handle felt extra secure in the palm of our hands. The handle comes in a selection of pretty, muted colors.

Longer Japanese-style knife


VG10 240mm Gyuto Knife
TOJIRO
VG10 240mm Gyuto Knife

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$140 AT AMAZON
The Tojiro DP 240mm Gyuto Knife almost beat out the Misono in our test, except that at 240 millimeters (about 9.5 inches), it was a bit too long to feel comfortable for more precise tasks. Still, it’s an excellent knife by a Japanese brand beloved by chefs for quality. If you prefer a longer blade and the slim, flatter-blade shape of a Gyuto, this is the one for you.

The 7” Classic Japanese Chef’s Knife from Global has a handy Granton edge, similar to the winning MAC, along the blade. The blade was quite sharp straight from the box, and it maintained that edge long enough to perform quite well in our tests. This knife is a bit shorter than most on this list, which might make it more comfortable for those with smaller hands, or anyone who wants a little extra precision with a fine dice or julienne. Ultimately, it didn’t earn a spot as one of our top picks because the grippy metal handle is too polarizing. Some find it reassuringly weighty, while others find it too firm to be comfortable during marathon cooking sessions. Plus, it could get slippery fairly easily.

How we picked
Trust us

I’ve been testing and reviewing knives for five years, but more importantly, I spend most of my time working as a line cook, with my chef’s knife more or less attached to my hand for the first half of each day. Currently, I’m a chef de partie at Dorian, a new restaurant in London’s Notting Hill neighborhood that landed a spot on the 2023 U.K. National Restaurant Awards 50 best list. I’m classically trained and have toted my knives to Alice Water’s Chez Panisse and The River Cafe in London, as well as to the kitchens of private clients from San Francisco to London. For the first few hours of every shift, I chop vegetables and portion meat and fish. Save for a few select tasks, my chef’s knife is the go-to for all of my morning prep jobs.

I also spoke with four experts, including a bladesmith, a former chef, a knife dealer and a knife sharpener, to better understand the scope of chef’s knives and what most home cooks are looking for: Jay Patel, the chief executive officer of London’s Japanese Knife Company, a multibranch specialized knife shop beloved by chefs and home cooks alike; Josh Donald, co-owner of Bernal Cutlery and author of “Sharp: The Definitive Guide to Knives, Knife Care, and Cutting Techniques, with Recipes from Great Chefs,” and a former chef as well; Eytan Zias, a bladesmith and co-founder of Knife House and Steelport Knife Co; and knife care expert Marc Lickfett, the CEO of mail-in sharpening service Knife Aid.

We tested

Decent-quality chef’s knives start at around $50 and can run into the many hundreds of dollars. While this isn’t an area to skimp on, as you’ll ideally have your knife for years if not decades, spending $80 to $160 is usually enough to get you a truly excellent blade. Blades of 7 to 9 inches hit the sweet spot for most cooks, as that length is the most versatile for the widest assortment of kitchen tasks.

Choose a knife with a hardness of at least 58 on the Rockwell scale, and consider your chopping technique when buying a knife, as a roll cut where you rock the blade back and forth while you cut only works well with a curved blade, and an up-and-down motion is better suited to flatter blades. The blade height—the measure of the metal where it meets the handle—should be at least 1.5 inches to allow for knuckle clearance of your supporting claw-gripped hand.

We tested 15 knives, with lengths between 7 and 10 inches and prices ranging from $25 to $300. We tested them over the course of several months, putting each knife through enough chopping, slicing and dicing to potentially dull the fresh-out-of-the-box sharpness. Here’s what we were looking for:

Factory-edge sharpness: All knives should start very sharp. In the first test, we paid attention to how well the brand-new knife diced shallots.
Edge retention: As Patel told us, “How sharp a knife is at the get-go is less important than how long it stays sharp.” Knives with softer steel, like the Western knives we tested, will lose their edge more quickly than premium Japanese knives.
Ease of upkeep: Is there something finicky about this knife, like an asymmetric bevel? Some knives are also prone to rusting, or have delicate wooden handles.
Balance/hand feel: A knife that feels fairly balanced in the hand is both easier and safer to use. “An extremely handle-heavy knife will tend to work against you, as the tip wants to pop up in your hand,” says Donald, who suggests finding a knife that, if not totally neutral-balanced, is only slightly weighted toward the handle and that “feels at home in your hand in several grips.”
We tested each knife with a series of real-world kitchen experiences. First we diced half a dozen shallots. This helped us judge how sharp the factory edge was, and how dexterous we felt with the knife in our hand, as dicing shallots requires not just a sharp blade but precise, finicky little cuts. We found this test was the best one to get a sense of the knife’s balance, hand feel and overall shape.

Then we roughly chopped sweet potatoes, carrots or turnips with each knife, judging not only how easily the blade slipped through each vegetable, but also whether it caused any splintering, which happens when a blade cracks or jaggedly splits a sturdy vegetable (the way an ax would splinter a log) instead of cleanly slicing it. This helped us get a sense of the blade thickness, as well as the overall heft of the knife and how long it maintained that factory edge. Next, we julienned basil. Since basil is prone to bruising easily, this test helped us see which knives might have dulled since Test One. Produce with waxy skins is the enemy of a sharp blade. Because of that, we tried to slice a cherry, pepper or tomato with the knife as our final test. If the knife snagged on the skin, we took note.

Japanese vs. Western-style knives

Knives generally come in either Japanese or Western styles. The two categories aren’t quite so clearly delineated because there is plenty of crossover between them, but having a basic understanding of each category will help you choose the right knife for you.

While not all Western-style knives are German, many of the top brands for home cooks are. “German-style knives are for people who just want durability, and are willing to sacrifice cutting performance and sharpness,” says Zias. Japanese knives, meanwhile, are “all about precision and sharpness,” he says. German-style chef’s knives, like those we tested from Wüsthoff, tend to have heavier blades with a belly that facilitates the rolling cutting motion taught alongside Western cooking.

In contrast, Japanese knives, such as a Santoku or a Gyuto, the two styles you’ll come across most often as alternatives to a Western chef’s knife, have flat edges, which are better for the up-and-down push cut. Many Japanese knives also have a single-bevel edge, where one side of the knife is sharpened at a steeper angle than the other.

The steel used for the blades of German-style knives is softer than that of Japanese knives, so it doesn’t hold an edge as well, but it’s also easier to sharpen and less likely to chip. Japanese knives are made from harder steel, often containing more carbon. The hardness of knives is measured on the Rockwell hardness scale, with most knives measuring in the high 50s to low 60s. Whichever style you choose, the experts I spoke with suggested you choose a blade with a score of at least 58 on the Rockwell scale. Specialized Japanese knives can go up to around 68, but that level of hardness is not necessary or beneficial for most home uses—as are the higher costs and more intensive care needs that come with these blades.

Our experts

Jay Patel, founder and CEO of London’s Japanese Knife Company
Josh Donald, a San Francisco-based co-owner of Bernal Cutlery and author of “Sharp: The Definitive Guide to Knives, Knife Care, and Cutting Techniques, with Recipes from Great Chefs”
Eytan Zias, a Portland, Ore.-based bladesmith and co-founder of Knife House and Steelport Knife Co.
Marc Lickfett, Los Angeles-based CEO of Knife Aid
Steel novice who self-identifies as a steel expert. Proud M.N.O.S.D. member 0003. Spydie Steels: 4V, 15V, 20CV, AEB-L, AUS6, Cru-Wear, HAP40, K294, K390, M4, Magnacut, S110V, S30V, S35VN, S45VN, SPY27, SRS13, T15, VG10, XHP, ZWear, ZDP189
Scandi Grind
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Re: WSJ - Best Chef's Knives

#2

Post by Scandi Grind »

Skimming this I am surprised that it seems well informed. None of the info is new to me after having done a deep dive into culinary cutlery about two years ago, but it is quite nice to see an article that is much more educated than what you usually see.

All of the knives mentioned are ones that are easily attainable from common online knife dealers, which is probably a good thing for most people. For those who are really interested in the breadth of options available, there are some speciality knife dealers that have Japanese blades that really give the more common knives a run for their money. ChefKnivesToGo.com is one of my favorite dealers, they have a huge selection of excellent value knives that can certainly compete with the likes of Myabi for much more affordable prices. The author consulted Josh Donald, his website, BernalCutlery.com is another great storefront.
"A knifeless man is a lifeless man."

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Re: WSJ - Best Chef's Knives

#3

Post by MacLaren »

I've got some decent Chef Knives like Tojiro DP Series in VG10 as well as some White #1 blades but, I'll swear none of them are better than this dam Temu special I got for $38!
It has no writing on it at all....but, it's supposed to have a VG10 Core. And, I don't doubt it!
She came absolutely perfect outta the box.
I was just shocked. And, she holds an edge too
She's thinner behind the edge than my Tojiro DP's and like I said, just slices and cuts better too!
I've had it since just after Christmas and I've been amazed by their performance - I bought 2 others since then.
I dunno, maybe I just got lucky?
Edit! I'm sorry, I got the one pictured for $31!!
The big Cleaver I got for $38 - sorry bout that!
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Re: WSJ - Best Chef's Knives

#4

Post by Scandi Grind »

This is my current go-to, a bit of a splurge knife. I didn't really need something this fancy, but I really appreciate American hand made knives, so I had this made custom. I like custom knives so much I plan on getting more in the future, but that will have to wait until I work up the budget for it. For me they are pieces of useful art. I imagine they make me feel the same way that my mother does when she buys something to decorate the house with, but I can cook meals with my knives!
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Re: WSJ - Best Chef's Knives

#5

Post by Bolster »

Scandi Grind wrote:
Thu May 09, 2024 2:56 pm
This is my current go-to, a bit of a splurge knife...

Tell us about it. What are the specs?
Steel novice who self-identifies as a steel expert. Proud M.N.O.S.D. member 0003. Spydie Steels: 4V, 15V, 20CV, AEB-L, AUS6, Cru-Wear, HAP40, K294, K390, M4, Magnacut, S110V, S30V, S35VN, S45VN, SPY27, SRS13, T15, VG10, XHP, ZWear, ZDP189
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Re: WSJ - Best Chef's Knives

#6

Post by benben »

Bolster wrote:
Thu May 09, 2024 4:11 pm
Scandi Grind wrote:
Thu May 09, 2024 2:56 pm
This is my current go-to, a bit of a splurge knife...

Tell us about it. What are the specs?
Yep, I’d like to hear about it also…
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Re: WSJ - Best Chef's Knives

#7

Post by benben »

Production Shun’s you can get from Williams-Sonoma is what got me started, I have four of them and use them all, great knives. But….my Muneishi Santoku was a complete eye opener, love this knife!

I do plan on having a custom made from a forum member who regularly frequents Glocktalk, I know I want 80crv2 and Desert Ironwood, just need to nail down the size and style?

Here’s the Muneishi.
IMG_3441.jpeg
IMG_3452.jpeg
IMG_3453.jpeg
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Re: WSJ - Best Chef's Knives

#8

Post by Scandi Grind »

Here are the specs on my custom:

It is 225mm long, 52mm tall, about 3.2mm at the spine, with 80crV2 carbon steel at 62hrc. The profile is basically a taller, longer version of a Kurosaki Raijin, the grind is a high full convex, and the handle is an octagonal sandwich construction with reddish wood laminate scales and white paper micarta liner and frame. It weighs in at about 7.84 oz.

It is a bit heavy duty, reminiscent of the style of knives originating in Sakai, which is the region that I seem to gravitate towards when it comes to Japanese knives, but mine is less rustic than those knives typically look. It has a interesting cultural blend in it's influence. It was made in the style of a Gyuto, which was the Japanese take on the French chef knife, and mine is made by an American knife maker in Connecticut. Someone suggested I have my Hawaiian name etched on the blade and I liked that idea, but to keep it in theme, and because Japanese letters look very artistic, I had "Kekoa" etched into the blade in Katakana lettering. It reads vertically, from the tip toward the handle.

While this knife does everything I need it to, I have owned a couple thinner knives that I sold off to fund this one. I'd like to get a thinner knife again eventually, but since I had to choose one knife to handle everything I do for a while, I opted to start with a sturdier knife.

So far I am loving the 80crV2 steel. Not stellar edge retention, but because it is thin behind the edge, you can go pretty far without needing to re-sharpen if necessary. I like sharpening, so it is a good steel for me. I have a Yoshimitsu Gyuto in White #1 steel, it has similar edge retention, possibly slightly better in a sense, but it doesn't take a finer edge finish quite as readily, although geometry could be playing a role there for sure. Under magnification, the White #1 seems to stay toothier looking at the same finish. I was surprised that I liked a more polished edge on my custom than I usually prefer. I have had a balsa strop and 3 micron diamond paste sitting unused, tried it on my custom after going up to my Naniwa #2000 Super Stone, and I really liked what stropping did to the edge. It might help that I am getting better at stropping.

This knife has been a lot of fun to have around! :grin-smiling-eyes
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Re: WSJ - Best Chef's Knives

#9

Post by Bolster »

^ Good review!
Steel novice who self-identifies as a steel expert. Proud M.N.O.S.D. member 0003. Spydie Steels: 4V, 15V, 20CV, AEB-L, AUS6, Cru-Wear, HAP40, K294, K390, M4, Magnacut, S110V, S30V, S35VN, S45VN, SPY27, SRS13, T15, VG10, XHP, ZWear, ZDP189
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