Grind the horns off of the Lil Temperance?

[mikemck]

Has anyone removed the 'horns' that make up the thumb ramp on the Lil Temperance?

I am thinking of grinding them off, but it looks like they might provide some stability for the blade, or serve some other useful funtion.

[hanswurst]

I kinda like the "horns". They can be used for fingerlocks and pressure point techniques, like the Gunting (but not quite as effective).

[J Smith]

I don't like them either and did think about grinding off the top one.It seems to get in the way in the closed position.

[zenheretic]

Has anyone removed the 'horns' that make up the thumb ramp on the Lil Temperance?

I am thinking of grinding them off, but it looks like they might provide some stability for the blade, or serve some other useful funtion. :rolleyes:
Blasphemy!..... :p I guess G10 is real toxic so do some research on a safe way to grind it... :eek:

[rainman]

Zenheretic, I don't have a Lil Temperance, and probably wouldn't grind the horns off if I did, but I might like to do some work on G10. Do you have any links to a site that describes the hazzards and precautions to use? I've found where to buy it, but that's about all I could find. I'm guessing that a regular dust mask wouldn't cut it.
Thanks,
---Tom

[CKE]

For grinding G-10 you need to wear a GOOD respirator. G-10(along with carbon fibre) is very toxic. I wear a mask with the canisters on the sides. Not sure off hand of the type of canister but it will say on the box where you buy them from what they are rated for. Personally I would not wear one of those paper style masks. Hope this helps. Take Care!!!!

[zenheretic]

Zenheretic, I don't have a Lil Temperance, and probably wouldn't grind the horns off if I did, but I might like to do some work on G10. Do you have any links to a site that describes the hazzards and precautions to use? I've found where to buy it, but that's about all I could find. I'm guessing that a regular dust mask wouldn't cut it.
Thanks,
---Tom
I don't sorry, I just remember reading about in an older thread...some even suggested using a wet sanding method to ensure no dust lingered about...maybe start a "sanding G10?" thread and I'm sure those with more knowledge would jump right in with useful info.... ;)

[zenheretic]

Mikemck, I hope you realize, I was only joking about grinding being a blasphemy...the Lil T is a great knife to hold in the hand...but doesn't seem to ride very well with all the points and horns...just wanted to warn everyone of the risks of the G-10 dust. :D

[Shmackey]

The horns and generally high-ride carry are why I moved the clip for tip-up carry on this one. That and it stays closed against my pocket. I often like tip-down carry for knives with the Spydie hole, but the Lil' Temp is more manageable with tip-up.

[zenheretic]

The horns and generally high-ride carry are why I moved the clip for tip-up carry on this one. That and it stays closed against my pocket. I often like tip-down carry for knives with the Spydie hole, but the Lil' Temp is more manageable with tip-up.
I'll have to try that...tip down is my prefered method also...only because that is how the originals were made and I'm used to that...either way works though so...

[rainman]

I don't sorry, I just remember reading about in an older thread...some even suggested using a wet sanding method to ensure no dust lingered about...maybe start a "sanding G10?" thread and I'm sure those with more knowledge would jump right in with useful info.... ;)

Thanks, I'll just use a respirator, and work out doors. I was thinking of dremel-etching a Celtic knot pattern someday. I hope FRN is not too bad, since I've already sanded off the broken clips from some of my older Enduras (outdoors). Sorry for semi-highjacking the thread, I'll stop now.
Thanks again,
---Tom

[Zwaplat]

You should be able to find an MSDS on G10. I'd do it myself, if I knew what G10 consists of (chemical name/structure).

Edit: I'm sure Spyderco wouldn't mind giving you the MSDS if you ask them politely. They machine it (?), so they need to have it.

[Piet.S]

G-10 is epoxy, reinforced with glassfibre.

[Zwaplat]

There then:
http://www.aeromech.usyd.edu.au/AERO1400/Jabiru_Construction/safety_pages/gfrp.htm

The MSDS's can be easily found with Google. Just type MSDS and the name of the chemical substance and you'll find it.

[JD Spydo]

For grinding G-10 you need to wear a GOOD respirator. G-10(along with carbon fibre) is very toxic. I wear a mask with the canisters on the sides. Not sure off hand of the type of canister but it will say on the box where you buy them from what they are rated for. Personally I would not wear one of those paper style masks. Hope this helps. Take Care!!!!

CKE is absolutely right about wearing a "dual carbon" respirator. The dust from G-10, Carbon Fiber and Micarta are all equivalent in danger to that of asbestos. Carbon Fiber particularly is a very small dust particle that will embed itself into your lung tissue. And like asbestos there is no way to get it out.

The paper masks are all right for outdoor applications for spraying latex paint or sanding on wood or other non toxic materials to work on. All of those space age polymers are extremely dangerous to work with unprotected. :spyder:

[rainman]

CKE is absolutely right about wearing a "dual carbon" respirator. The dust from G-10, Carbon Fiber and Micarta are all equivalent in danger to that of asbestos. Carbon Fiber particularly is a very small dust particle that will embed itself into your lung tissue. And like asbestos there is no way to get it out.

The paper masks are all right for outdoor applications for spraying latex paint or sanding on wood or other non toxic materials to work on. All of those space age polymers are extremely dangerous to work with unprotected. :spyder:
Thanks everyone. I re-did some floor tile (the flexible, linolium type), and had to use one of those long, heavy-handled scrapers to get the old stuff off. I then read on the box of new tile that they contain asbestos, and proper protection should be worn :eek: I probably have my "fill" of bad stuff in my lungs already, so I will definatly get a good respirator before doing anymore fiberous grinding.
---Tom

[Vincent]

If you cut it when there is water pooring on it, it will be not fully safe but safer than not wet.

Water will hold down the dust./

[HoB]

When I had the Lil'T, my first impuse was to get rid of the horns, but over time I have come to appreciate them.

[thom lambert]

I ground the top horn off my Lil Temp....I love it. It doesn't affect the blade stability at all, makes the knife much easier in and out of my pocket and doesn't seem to affect the comfort of using it for hard cuts. I reprofiled the rest of the handle as well, taking out the large bumps at the non-blade end of the handle, for a more all-round type grip.

Definitly use a good mask. I set up a shop-vac so that it is taking the dust as soon as it leaves the belt sander, and work under a window with a strong window fan exhausting the air to the outside. Not only do you not want to breathe the dust while sanding, you don't want to breathe it later on when the settled dust gets stirred up.

Thom

[The Deacon]

A safe alternative to dust masks, exhaust fans and shop-vacs, is to use wet-or-dry sandpaper on a sanding block, and do your sanding in the kitchen sink, with the water running. It's slower, but a heck of a lot more controlable than using "power tools" and, it has a couple other benfits. No dust to worry about and your sandpaper cuts faster because it does not clog up. Have not done this with G10, but it works fine on micarta, FRN, and carbon fiber, so can't see why it would not work equally well on G10. Cleanup is just a question of getting rid of any slurry remaining on the knife, the sandpaper, the sink, or your hands.

[Axlis]

What is G-10 exactly?

[HoB]

G-10 is a fiberglass filled resin. In many ways not so different from FRN. The main differences AFAIK are the filling material: Epoxy resin vs. nylon and in the fiberglass structure. In FRN the glass fibers are relatively short and not ordered (you simply dump a fibers in to the Nylon "sirup" stirr and let it harden) while they are longer and ordered (you take essentially a woven fiberglass mat and pour epoxy resin over it till the mat is over saturated, in many ways similar to carbon fiber). My guess is, that the ordered versus nonordered gives G-10 those outstanding properties in terms of structural strength.