AUS-10 or CPM-440

[80L]

Which is the better steel (in terms of hardness, edge-retention, sharpening, etc.)?

[The Stare]

Hi 80L -- Welcome to the forum.

To answer your question accurately and thoroughly, it is really necessary for you to explain the uses of the knife you're considering. Everyone uses knives differently. Also, definitions sometimes help.

For instance, your questioning asks about sharpening. Off the top, am sure most people would say that AUS10 is easier to sharpen than 440V. Well, ultimately, that would depend upon the hardness of the steel, which is dependent upon heat treatment. But, I have 2 knives with 440V steel blades, and so far as just touching them up with a ceramic rod, both require only a few swipes on the rod to get to scalpel sharp.

I don't own any knives with AUS10 blades. It is a still very uncommon steel. The only knife that leaps to my mind that uses that steel is the Cold Steel semi-balisong knife.

CPM440V has a great deal of vanadium in it. When steel is heat treated, the harder the carbide, the sooner it forms. Vanadium makes the hardest carbides, so it's carbides form first. In terms of edge holding, even at a relatively soft heat treatment, few steels should perform as well as 440V. CPM420V should outdo 440V.

My ISP is having troubles today, and I couldn't find any steel content sites that include AUS10 on the chart. So, I'm just not familiar with it's makeup. If you could provide that makeup, then one could be a bit more specific in comparison.

To sum up, except for ease of sharpening, 440V "should" out perform AUS10 in every way, given an appropriate heat treat.

Stare

[80L]

The Edge-ucation part of this site has info on the make-up of these steels...I just don't know which components make for a better blade. I suppose I ought to check a steel site out and do some learning. Thanks for the input.

ADL

[Joe Talmadge]

We can make a couple predictions about these steels, I think. Keep in mind that consensus seems to be that 440V should be kept to 56ish Rc; AUS-10 will probably end up being heat treated more around 60 Rc. Given that, I'm sure we can say:

10A will be stronger and harder than 440V

440V will likely still be more wear resistant. Note that wear resistance is not the same thing as edge retention.

At similar hardness, 10A will be much tougher than 440V. But with 4 points of Rc hardness separating them, as is bound to happen ... dunno. Gut feel says 10A probably still wins, but I really have no idea.

Rust resistance ... dunno.

Joe

[sam the man..]

Yeah, did some read-up -- The AUS-10 is harder! <img src="wink.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle> But I love the 440V cos its a robust blade material.. Stains slightly though.. Malaysia's all-year round humidity is an excellent testing ground for corrosion resistance qualities... <img src="wink.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle>

Sam

have spydies will travel

[Jeff/1911]

80L,

Are you considering the difference between the s/s Native and it's lightweight counterpart, by any chance?

I notice that the Native II with s/s handle uses AUS-10. I am glad you posed this question, I've always wondered where AUS-10 fit in, as well.

Jeff/1911.

[80L]

You caught me Jeff. I was comparing the Native Lightweight to the Native II. In fact, I traded in the lightweight for the II. I like the blade on the II with its half serration/half plain blade, but I was just wondering about the difference in blade material. Which material has the better reputation and such.

[Jeff/1911]

I'll bet you are really enjoying the heft of the heavier stainless steel handle on the Native II, aren't you?

I think that the FRN handled &quot;lightweight&quot; Spyderco knives are a great idea, but I still love the feel of a stainless handle.

Jeff/1911.