zdp-189 can't get it sharp

[powercut]

Maybe it's just me but "I just can't get it sharp" ZDP-189 that is.
on the other hand, CPM S30V on my manix gets like a razor.
Actually I am very :) with cpm s30v

[txtroublemaker]

I completely empathize with you on this. I had a heck of a time putting a good edge on my ZDP Caly. I have found that you cannot let ZDP get dull, if you do, you'll need diamond stones, power tools or both. Fortunately, a fellow forum member was able to put a good edge back on it for me.

[arnon]

From my experience, zdp blades really love the cardboard buffing wheel on my benchgrinder ...

[yablanowitz]

The only problem I had getting my ZDP Delica razor sharp (and then some) was it took a bit more time. I use DMT and EZ Lap diamond hones, freehand all the way. I may not have the perfect flat back bevel any more, but I haven't even touched it up in three weeks. I did have to use more pressure to get the stones to cut into the steel on this knife than others, so I suspect much patience will be required with a Sharpmaker. Good luck :D

[Senate]

ZDP requires patience and a good level of sharpening practice. the burr is very thin and the steel caracteristic (exceptionnal edge rentention on low angle edge) makes it difficult to get rid of.
it usually takes me 3 or 4 times more strokes than S30V on the 204 to get a good sharpness.

[Nobody]

Yeah, I guess ZDP isn't for everyone I suppose. You can just sell it to me and I'll take that difficult ZDP off your hands. :D

I've got a Caly in ZDP and it's perhaps one of my easiest knives to sharpen for me. I'd have loved to get a Delica but I missed out. :(

[Texas guy]

From my experience, zdp blades really love the cardboard buffing wheel on my benchgrinder ...
I bet that is true because I find that ZDP shines up BEAUTIFULLY on a chromium oxide loaded strop, where S30V seems to get duller with stroping and never gets that mirror shined edge.

I find ZDP takes a MUCH better edge much easier than S30V. I dread having to sharpen my Para, but my Caly ZDP is a champ.
Maybe my technique just favors one steel over another, but I find ZDP also takes a better edge than VG10.
My method:
I set the back bevel (<10 degrees on my Caly) with a coarse DMT diasharp hone, then a DMT fine diasharp hone.
Then I clean up the back bevel with 400-600-and up silicon caribide sandpaper on a mousepad. This takes the relativley ugly bevel the diamonds leave and makes it a consistant and slightly convexed bevel. (really helps out cosmetically, leaves a really nice bevel)
Now I put the final edge on with my Sharpmaker at the 15 degree setting, going all the way from the grey stones through the ultra-fine stones.
Finally, I put a delicious mirrored edge on with a chromium-oxide-loaded leather strop.
After this treatment my Caly ZDP will pop leg hairs an inch off the skin, fillet newspaper and sail through cardboard like it wasn't there!!!

[Mr Blonde]

I can relate to those sharpening issues with ZDP. The first time is the hardest i my opinion. The second time around a little touch up is all that's needed. My advice for you is to quit sharpening now, leave it for a day and then try again. The pause is good for the mind and concentration.;)

Wouter

[jaislandboy]

... Finally, I put a delicious mirrored edge on with a chromium-oxide-loaded leather strop...!

Sounds tasty Texasguy!:D

[JD Spydo]

AS much as I admire Sal's video with the 204 Sharpmaker and as much as I use the Sharpmaker and other Spyderco sharpening tools I still say it pays a guy to learn his basic sharpening principles. The Razor Edge Company out of Ely Minnesota has a video or DVD on basic knife sharpening that really shows you the ABC fundamentals of the proper sequence of the stages you need to get your blades sharp.

That teaching of John Juranitch who did the video for Razor Edge really is a Great 101 type teaching of knife sharpening. I get mine out and watch it again every now and then. IF you don't get proper relief ground into both sides of the edge you are just beating your head against the wall. Once you learn those principles on that Razor Edge instuctional video you will quickly become proficient at sharpening.

And it still takes a lot of practice. start out on old pockets knives that might be laying around the house and start out on old kitchen knives. Do a few of those before you get serious about your Spyders and other premium knives. You can do it >>> It's just a matter of patience and practice. :spyder:

[gull wing]

I think a ZDP knife is a good knife to have, but for the EDC, I still like the steels that are good but a little easier to keep up. (S30V, VG10, H1)
I don't think I will ever have an EDC in M2, ZDP, S90V, etc. Right now, I will use my ZDP's only for light duty.

[mike6640]

I have had my Horn ZDP for a few weeks now. I wanted to give it an edge equal to or better than another ATS-34 blade that I own.

A few weeks later, I have finally achieved scary sharpness.

ZDP is unlike any steel I have seen. The burr is incredibly small and can render the edge very 'grippy dull' even though it is almost invisible. I have learned to find it by drawing my thumb away from the edge. After several tries, you know when it is finally smooth.

I have a coarse/fine 325/750 diamond stone from buck which works great on the ZDP. I freehand to 15 degrees (30 inclusive) using a three penny stack to set the initial angle:

http://knives.mylamb.com/calc.htm

I have found it necessary to stay a bit longer on each stone, using a lighter and lighter touch to roll the very stubborn burr side to side. It will take almost 3x the number of strokes as a 'normal' steel, maybe 4.

Once I had the profile set and burr removed, I polished the edge using a viking whetstone. It is a jasper obelisk pendant, similar in hardness to a fine black arkansas stone. Highly recommended, as it can be an EDW (Everyday wear) sharpener. I found it through Ragweed Forge:

http://www.ragweedforge.com/SharpeningCatalog.html

Never before have I had a blade that shaved so effortlessly. It literally moves the hair away, like sweeping sand along a plate of glass with a playing card, no popping. The hair simply collects at the edge, smooth skin remains.

I have no hair left on most of my left arm and large parts of my legs. I must find a different edge testing method, very soon.

Mike

[d.g.g]

Maybe it's just me but "I just can't get it sharp" ZDP-189 that is.
on the other hand, CPM S30V on my manix gets like a razor.
Actually I am very :) with cpm s30v

PC- Please tell us how you are trying to sharpen it? What do you use? What angles, etc.?

As hard as ZDP-189 steel is, a good sharpening rod/stone is many many times harder and will cut the hardest steel.

You can see this on a Moh's scale (which is not an arithmatic scale) where an iron file is #7 and the caborundum which is what most good sharpening stones/rods are made of is a #9.

http://www.amfed.org/t_mohs.htm

Here is some good info about sharpening that may be of help. I like to use the magic marker trick whereby you mark the very edge of the blade with a black magic marker, sharpen it, and look to see where the steel is being removed.

http://forums.egullet.com/index.php?showtopic=26036

[Senate]

just wanted to add that I sharpened BG42 for the first time yesterday and wow :eek: ... ZDP feels like butter compared to this one. ;)