New Knife, Old Problem...RUST!!!

[RealMC]

Hi There. This is my first post (please be kind!). I tried searching the Spyderco forums but did not have much luck on this precise issue: rust on a BRAND NEW Spyderco Viele (VG-10). I bought the knife last Wednesday (5 days ago) and used it this past weekend (camping). I cut some meat, apples and rope. Rinsed with fresh water and wiped dry after each use. SEVERE surface rust appeared by Sunday--mostly on the inside part of the blade (the back of the blade/pivot end), the inside of the thumb hole and the three small Viele signature holes. Is this normal?! I tried scrubbing with toothpaste (per Spyderco recommendation) but much of the rust remains. Sorry this post is so long but I really want to avoid losing my knife for several weeks if I return it to Spyderco. Please help!!! Thanks in advance.



Matt

[glasshartt]

Matt,

Welcome to the forum. Did you use the old-fashioned white paste type toothpaste or the gel type? The gel doesn't have the same cleaning properties as the white type. The white type is great for silver jewelry too. After you get it clean, use something like "Tuf-Cloth" or a silicon lube on it to prevent further rust. If you are going to continue using it on food, be sure to use a food grade lube, otherwise you could get very ill. Good luck.

Linda



<img src="http://www.spyderco.com/forum/spyder.gif" border=O> Integrity is being good even if no-one else is watching <img src="http://www.spyderco.com/forum/spyder.gif" border=O>

[vampyrewolf]

I'd suggest using MINERAL OIL as your lube, FULL KNIFE.

For the rust, get a cleaner called Barkeepers Friend and work away. After that, give it an oil treatment, in all the workings.

I usually carry the oil with me in the field, and have some in my bike stuff for any areas on the bike that need a quick lube.

For the knife, put a few drops in the lock well and pivot when the blade is half open, and work it in. About 15 minutes is good, followed by a good wipe. I also put a drop or two on the lock spring from the inside, and work it in(wipe the inside by shoving a chunk of shammy in and working it full length up the handle). A couple drops on some shammy and then wiped on the blade is also good for rust prevention.

Mineral oil is 100% safe, and can be scented if you wish. I know a few people add clove oil to it. It's not a long term oil, and has to be cleaned and reapplied(or replaced) if you just plan to store it. It CAN go sour if for long term storage. I have used it for a few years now, and not had any problems yet.

[sc_rebel1957]

Hi Mc the culprit is the acid in the apples(most here are gonna go duh when they see this) I've heard of a product called Flitz that can be used to remove rust/scratches btw hi Linda sending you an order on or about the 3rd. Ron

[RealMC]

Thank you all for the input! I will definately follow your recommendations. I already bought some Flitz and it has worked well on the exposed portion of the blade. I have to figure a way to get inside the knife to get at the pivot-point area of the blade. I am still curious, though--is this common for a brand new knife of this calibre? I mean, I have some inexpensive Swiss Army knives that have never been cleaned over the span of several years. They have not rusted at all!!

[delicrazy]

welcome to the forum! the problem isnt the quality of the knife it is that vg-10 isnt the greatest rust proof steel. it holds an edge and is very strong just not rust proof.

[cmassicotte]

Hi RealMC

In a fairly recent thread (within the last 60 days) the subject of rust came up and a couple of forumites stated that once rust gets in, it really never goes away.
You asked about getting to the inside of the knife - I don't know if that one can be disasembled - and I don't think I would if it could (I would NEVER get it back together) - but that might be the only way to get to all the rust.
I don't know how serious the problem is, but my recomendation is that confront the issue of Spydie withdrawl and seriously consider sending it back to the factory for a fix.

Chuck
Patiently waiting for the ParaMilitary


The journey is the best part of getting there

[RealMC]

Thanks again to all for the advice. Chuck, I took your recommendation and I sent the knife to the Golden factory today. Now the waiting begins (I'm already having withdrawal symptons!).

Matt

If a Man does Not Keep Pace with His Companions, Perhaps it is Because He Hears a Different Drummer. -H.D. Thoreau

[Mecki-Messer]

This thread made me a little nervous, since I&#180;ve already ordered an Endura PE in VG-10. Does VG-10 really rust that fast? Or might RealMC&#180;s problem be that of a rare (?) production flaw? What&#180;s your opinion? I think rust shouldn&#180;t be that fast all over a brand knew high quality, right?

Where you go, there you are!

[boxer93]

M-M,
I would probably call it more rare than normal. I've been using my Ltwt. Calypso Jr. PE in VG-10 and I have not seen any sign of rust. I have not used it in water, but I've been using it for 7+ months now.
My .02 US
Chris

Be Excellent to each other.

[J Smith]

The only one that I have any real problems with rust is my 440V Milli.I just keep it cleaned off and don't worry much about it,after all the stuff that makes it rust is the same stuff that makes it cut.

JEFF .............Sooooo I see the internet is on the computer now.-Homer Simpson

[Jeff/1911]

I haven't had any rust with any of my VG-10 Spyderco knives (5 at the moment) and cut food with them all the time.

Like VampyreWolf; I use mineral oil too.

Jeff/1911.

[vampyrewolf]

The only knife I have actaully had a rust problem on is my CRKT BearClaw... bead blasted... rust magnet.

I wore it as a neck knife for a day of biking(in a pair of gym shorts, no pockets and weak elastic) and I was sweating. I got home after 5 hrs of it, and there was rust spots all over it. I took it out, took the handles off, and gave it an oil bath.
then rubbed the oil off, doused it in zippo fuel, and lit it(trick from my grandfather), burning away anything left on the blade. another oil bath and rub down, then reassembly, and back into the sheath. The heat from the lighting also aids in drying up the interior of the sheath.

This was back on tuesday... not a sign of rust again yet...

[RealMC]

Hi again. From all I've read--both here and generally on the internet--I believe that the problems with my Viele were the result of a rare defective &lt;img src=&quot;http://www.spyderco.com/forum/spyder.gif&quot;



If a Man does Not Keep Pace with His Companions, Perhaps it is Because He Hears a Different Drummer. -H.D. Thoreau

Edited by - RealMC on 8/28/2002 1:42:49 PM

[Mecki-Messer]

RealMC:

Let us know, what the guys in Golden say about this issue. Apart from mineral oil which has to be reaplied often, are there any other oils that stick. Maybe like gun oil, or so?

Just wondering...

Where you go, there you are!

[Mecki-Messer]

Little addition:
Down at knifecenter I read something about Dri-Lube by Remington. Has anyone tried it? Is it any good?

Where you go, there you are!

[RealMC]

I'll definately let everyone know what the problem is according to Spyderco. Probably will take a few weeks. Thanks.

Matt

<img src="http://www.spyderco.com/forum/spyder.gif" If a Man does Not Keep Pace with His Companions, Perhaps it is Because He Hears a Different Drummer. -H.D. Thoreau <img src="http://www.spyderco.com/forum/spyder.gif"

[crowfoot]

Hello Spydernuts,
RealMC, we have same problem .......
A few days agou I got for my friend Endura in VG-10 stell.
I already have same one a few weeks.
Wen we picked-up from box we could see that a large surface
right side of blade is rust.He was very disilusion and he said me:
Spyderco sells rust knives ?
I was very savage and angry because I advised to him this knives !
I don&#180;t talk him about hight quality of Spyderco !
I was thinking about and I think that Spyderco&#180;s quality was sleeping !

The nicest of worlds is world of knives ...

[Simple Man]

I think a bad batch of VG-10 must have gotten out, I have carried my VG-10 Endura for about 3 months now. I have pulled it several times to find sweatbeads/condensation on it from riding in my pocket when I have been working outside. There is not a bit of rust on it. I think I have had more problem with AUS-8 than the VG-10, and that was just surface rust that came off easily with a thumbnail.

[Blade Santa Cruz]

A problem with the heat treatment can cause a big decrease in corrosion resistance. This has happened frequently with ATS-34 blades which are very difficult to heat treat properly. <img src="spyder.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0> has some of the best equipment in the industry for keeping o top of such potential problems, but I imagine an occasional bad batch could slip by.

[vampyrewolf]

You should have seen the ATS-55 a few years back...

I got mine in 99, so it could have been either a 98 or 99 batch... a whole whack of ppl over on BF were complaining about rust on thier Delicas. I haven't had a single problem. The occasional bad batch gets through. normaly due to heat treat...

[RealMC]

UPDATE!!! I received a letter from Spyderco a few weeks ago. Basically, Spyderco determined that my knife was defective and should be replaced. They no longer produce the Viele so they gave me a credit towards another model. I had already purchased as a replacement the medium-sized Spyderco Rescue (all stainless steel)--awesome knife, by the way. Therefore, I went bigger and I chose, IMO, the mother of all Spydercos: the Chinook. I received it at the end of last week. WOW! What an impressive and beautiful knife. I can't wait to put it to use in the field (or woods, as the case may be). I am so happy with the service and quick response of Spyderco. They rock!!!!!

Matt

<img src="http://www.spyderco.com/forum/spyder.gif" If a Man does Not Keep Pace with His Companions, Perhaps it is Because He Hears a Different Drummer. -H.D. Thoreau <img src="http://www.spyderco.com/forum/spyder.gif"