Spyderco Forums

I'd like to see Pekka's compression lock design brought towards production! Hopefully with as lean grind as originally was in Nilakka but with a steel better suited for it. What has stopped me from buying the Nilakka has been the high carbide steel given the otherwise superbly designed blade. On top...

Tip down works for knives that have high ratio of handle weight / detent strength. That is, knives like Paramilitary 1 that you can Spyderdrop easily without using much strength. On the other hand, most lock backs require more force if you were to drop them open, which is an unnecessary source for w...

Comparing Urban and Squeak handles in photos had me thinking: If Urban Superblue sprint ends up being too expensive to sell, maybe we could have a Squeak sprint in it's stead? I'd guess there'd be a suitable European carbon steel in hiding some where, if it has to be carbon steel. If, on the other h...

The Superblue Delica is nice not only because of the steel, but also because it's so thin! This of course applies to all other flat ground Delicas as well. I hope we get more thin bladed knives in the future, even if the trend seems to have favored pry bar grinds over efficient cutting geometries th...

If you were willing to drill away the pins, would it be overly difficult to pin new scales on the Calys or G10 Persians? I have both and would consider a wood scale project, but the lack of already existing pimp jobs makes me think there's something in the construction of pinned knives that makes it...

I got a Paramilitary 1 some seven years ago, together with a Sharpmaker and, if memory serves me right, VG 10 serrated ladybug. Already in the 90's I was ogling Spyderco Bob Terzuola and Tim Wenger collab models, but being a poor student, couldn't afford to order any from across the pond.

I might be interested in the leaf version if the price doesn't run out of limits. Urban's handle seems rather close to Squeak's, which I'm very fond of.

Up-and-down blade play is difficult to avoid with lock backs, half of my Spydies have it to some noticeable degree, some from use and some ever since the beginning. None of these knives will close on their own, and in most cases I don't pay any attention to it in use. The exception is whittling, whe...

I don't know what's up with the PITS, but it's very tempting despite it's lack of lock and that I don't generally fancy metal handles! Maybe it's the holes in the handle with their promise of making it less slippery? I like the wire clip on it too, both from visual and functional points of view. Som...

I've been ogling one for a long time. What has stopped me, however, is the steel choice combined with the delicate tip. I've managed to decapitate my Para 1 (CPM S30V) two times, once I don't know how and once by scraping very lightly chipping paint off wooden window frames. Therefore, I've decided ...

Dang the double post from the back seat of my car! ;) So, with this knowledge I could reformulate: if we were to pick one among the class (of steels, 5Cr13), why not pick the primus (AEB-L, someting else?)? Of course I realize the difference between AEB-L and its less astute class mates is not humon...

Thanks Cliff and Thom! I associated 5Cr13 with 12C27 Thinking it wouldn't get quite as hard as AEB-L (13C26) having slightly less carbon. Sorry for being slobby, didn't realize it's a name of the whole class of steels.

I have a couple of Schempps, a Khukuri, Rock Salt and a G10 Mini Persian. I sure like the design of those knives, even if there are a few nit to pick: The sharp point over the trademark hole in Rock Salt bugs me when I choke up on the blade, and the grind in Khukuri if way too fat - it's not a chopp...

Yes, that is the optimal choice for that geometry for a stainless steel. To clarify you would optimally want a steel which is designed purity wise for very thin edges. The main difference between say AEB-L and 5Cr13 is simply the level of inclusions is much lower in AEB-L. However even a basic 5Cr1...

I too like Superblue, even if acidic apples corrode the very apex rather fast, unless immediately rinsed. Regarding carbon steels in general, I like patina and that it is a self-healing surface. I just re-profiled my Caly 3 SB sprint to an acuter angle by freehanding on DMT diamonds. The DMT aligner...

My brown rod have been wearing over the years but they still cut ok. Maybe I'll see if scratching their backs gently with diamonds will make them purr happier. The base is getting a little loose, perhaps it's showing wear after numerous times the rods have been stuck in / removed. The fine stone are...

I'd be interested in one! Nilakka would an excellent candidate with the original, very thin grind. A forged blade doesn't do it for me, but what about using some exotic sounding European steel? Nitrobe 77 is perhaps difficult to obtain (or so I've let myself believe), but I wonder if Lohmann Niolox ...

I'd be interested in a stainless analogue to the Superblue line, i.e. something geared towards very acute apex angles and high edge stability. I wonder what would be the best alternatives available in Japane steels?

I too fail to see the advantage of the selected steel combo, but on a positive note, perhaps this could enentually lead to a functional, synergistic composite produced utilizing the same technology?

I see no benefit in making Stretch cut any worse. Indeed, I'd much rather go towards leaner grinds than thicker. It's rather easy to apply a more obtuse microbevel to a leaner grind, should you run into problems, as compared to thinning a thick blade without a belt grinder or similar mechanical aid....